By The TENS Magazine Editorial Staff
Belgian designer Pieter Mulier is stepping down from his role as creative director of the French luxury fashion house Alaïa after a transformative five-year tenure. The departure marks the end of a highly acclaimed chapter for the brand, which is owned by the Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont. Mulier will present his final designs for the maison with the Fall 2026 collection, scheduled to debut at Paris Fashion Week in March 2026. Following his exit, Mulier is set to take on the role of Chief Creative Officer at the Italian luxury label Versace, a move that aligns with a major corporate restructuring under the brand’s new parent company, the Prada Group.
In a formal statement addressing the departure, Myriam Serrano, the Chief Executive Officer of Alaïa, expressed gratitude for the designer’s contributions. According to Serrano, Mulier and his team successfully shaped the creative renewal of the house, honoring its deep-rooted heritage while simultaneously strengthening its global recognition and relevance in the modern luxury market. Philippe Fortunato, Chief Executive Officer of Fashion & Accessories Maisons at Richemont, echoed these sentiments, noting that the brand’s next chapter will continue to be guided by the values of timelessness and exceptional craftsmanship that defined Mulier’s era.
Mulier’s appointment at Alaïa in 2021 was a historic moment for the brand. He became the first official creative director to take the helm following the passing of the house’s legendary founder, Azzedine Alaïa, in 2017. During the interim years, the collections were managed by an anonymous in-house design studio. Tasked with revitalizing a quieted brand, Mulier approached the archives with discipline and respect. He successfully translated the founder’s signature focus on the female form, architectural construction, and body-contouring silhouettes into a contemporary context.
Throughout his five years at the maison, Mulier balanced high-concept runway presentations with immense commercial success. His collections frequently featured innovative material techniques, such as garments crafted from a single string of yarn or seamless designs devoid of zippers and buttons. Beyond ready-to-wear apparel, Mulier introduced highly coveted accessories that significantly boosted the brand’s market presence. Items such as the elongated Le Teckel bag and the widely popular mesh ballet flats became defining staples of contemporary fashion. His ability to merge artistic integrity with commercial viability earned him the title of International Designer of the Year at the CFDA Awards.
As Mulier concludes his tenure in Paris, his transition to Versace represents a significant shift in the broader fashion industry landscape. The Italian fashion house has recently undergone substantial changes, culminating in a €1.25 billion acquisition by the Prada Group, which was finalized in December 2025. Mulier will officially assume his new responsibilities in Milan on July 1, 2026. He succeeds Dario Vitale, who experienced a brief tenure at the brand after taking over from longtime creative lead Donatella Versace.
The leadership at the Prada Group has expressed strong confidence in Mulier’s ability to steer the historic Italian label into a new era of profitability and cultural prominence. Lorenzo Bertelli, the Executive Chairman of Versace and a key executive within the Prada Group, stated that Mulier was identified as the ideal candidate during the acquisition process. According to Bertelli, the company believes Mulier possesses the vision necessary to unlock the full potential of Versace and engage in a meaningful dialogue with its bold, glamorous legacy.
Before stepping into the spotlight at Alaïa, Mulier built a formidable reputation behind the scenes as one of the industry’s most technically skilled designers. For nearly two decades, he served as the trusted right-hand man to Belgian designer Raf Simons. Their collaborative working relationship spanned several prestigious luxury houses, including Jil Sander, Christian Dior, and Calvin Klein. This extensive background provided Mulier with a profound understanding of global luxury markets and the operational demands of major fashion institutions. Interestingly, his move to Versace brings him back into the corporate orbit of his longtime collaborator, as Raf Simons currently serves as the co-creative director of Prada alongside Miuccia Prada.
As the industry prepares for Mulier’s highly anticipated debut at Versace later this year, the future of Alaïa remains a subject of close observation. A permanent successor has not yet been named by Richemont. In the interim period following the March runway show, the in-house design studio will once again take over creative responsibilities to ensure continuity for the brand. Mulier leaves behind a stabilized, modernized, and highly desirable maison, setting a high benchmark for whoever steps into the role next.
